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FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2012, PART 2

THE BEST OF MILAN ET PARIS

TECHNO COUTURE 
Balenciaga
Paris
photos © www.style.com

Nicolas Ghesquière is Paris Fashion week's true favourite. Achieving to restore balance between conceptual power and 'wear-ability', his neoprene-stiff volumes in muscular shoulders, inspired by medieval samurai armours, are geometrically underlined by contrasting graphics. Thus, jackets, sleeveless dresses, tuxedo jackets and fitted pants turn into futuristic, almost winter-like armours, while white and simple make up keep them casual. 

GLAMOUR ACID FIFTIES 
Prada
Milan
photos © www.style.com

Just like Proenza Schouler two weeks ago, the queen of concepts and attractive kitsch significantly engaged with the Fifties' Googie lines and their futuristic-pop line delirium, with a touch of Hollywood glam-rock for contrast. Dresses and silk pleated-skirts pile up, light and vaporous, in sparkling positions and Cadillac prints, while colours move towards a bitter harmony, somewhere in-between American Diner's acid pastels and neat classics.  

MINIMALISTIC COMPACT SCALE
Céline
Parisphotos © www.style.com

Without any surprise, Phoebe Philo keeps on moderating the dressing room with a pure, monastic white that is both casual and smart. This season, she steps forward  larger scales and thicker materials, without losing her precision and skills: less dry, more generous and rounded. These rounded volumes, inspired by the fifties, streamlined in stiff cottons and green, Bordeaux or white pine-tree monochrome cottons are timeless. As for the military inspired jackets, they do smell like winter...

UTILITARIAN CHIC
Christophe Lemaire
Paris
photos © www.style.com

Christophe Lemaire once again reconciles pragmatism and elegance.
Highly designed dresses, with their 'ventilation'snap fasteners,get declined in rainclothes on sober, generous volumes. A radically simple dress room, thoroughly thought trough, to consider the summer climate constraints with style. 

SEXY PASTEL UNIFORMS
Véronique Leroy
Parisphotos © www.style.com

''Just like a Claude Sautet movie'', Véronique Leroy borrows from the bourgeoisie a discreet sense of charm, to give it a modern twist. The remaining chic, simple undershirts, tunics and spotless shirts, moulded or softened, subtly get back to their original proportions, feeling at ease in the pastels area: white, cream, in pseudo-austere, tenderly sexy uniforms.

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