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FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2012, PART 1

THE BEST OF NEW YORK AND LONDON

RETRO-GRAPHIC GLAMOUR
Proenza Schouler
New York


photos © www.style.com

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's collection is quite a surprise, being both glamorous with its sexy, asserted style, and graphical with its dark-contrasted colors, its decorative block compositions and its sharp proportions. All is embedded in a cartoon-like, retro-futuristic look, inspired from the 40s-60s googie architecture... An unexpected mix that definitely highlights the New York Fashion week. It also marks the outcome of a more deviant, yet more mature search from the two New Yorkers, that was started in 2007 :


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SWEET EPURE
Phillip Lim
New York


Photo © www.style.com

Well-thought-out and quiet. In line with Stella McCartney SS11 show, the collection,  very contemporary, comes in mild, sporty variations: no unnecessary details, no setting, clean white, refreshing pastels, smooth, comfy materials. For sure, one of  2012 summer's major hits.

TONIC LOOSE
Acne by Jonny Johansson
London


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Clearly marked by his last trip to Marrakech, Jonny Johansson renews the traditional Moroccan dressing room and its worn-out codes with a simple, urban minimalistic approach. Simplified caftans, jilbabs and djellabahs, as if cleaned out of all their folklore, become Zen, without losing their generosity. A mastery mix of graphical, tonic strokes with an offbeat, grunge twist... London's true favourite.

SPORT-STYLE DESIGN
Lacoste by Felipe Oliveira Baptista
New York


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Following Christophe Lemaire's footsteps, Felipe Oliveira Baptista's first collection for Lacoste keeps forging ahead a simple, efficient elegance. Without a radical change, the Portuguese creator manages to transform the brand's identity, through a subtle renewal of the palette, imposing a more urban approach, and even more structured volumes. Heading for an effortless, powerful femininity, that flirts with Alexander Wang's athletic, sexy universe.

MODERN GODDESS
Costello Tagliapietra
New York


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Meanwhile, the Costello Tagliapietra surprising duo keeps on implementing efficient, neat, glamorous and well-balanced variations, which we still haven't grown tired of. 

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