TRADE
SHOW REPORTS
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BREAD & BUTTER

Berlin - January 19-21, 2011

The trade fair mood is directed in two strong trends :
-    An outdoor influence, seen with the increased impact of authentics (work jacket, parka, slacks, workwear shirt, functional garments)
-    The smart preppy trend predominates, it is translated less in a classic American style and more in a workwear, dandy mood. Lots of associations with indigo denims directly inspired by reissues from major brands (Levi’s, Wrangler)
-    Urban Superior and L.o.c.k are areas where something was going on with real style viewpoints, each time in a more detailed way and better targeted with 50’s or 70’s scenarios (ex. Levi’s "made and crafted").
-    This season, the Denim Base area created an event with Tommy Hilfiger’s gigantic stand ;
-    A guaranteed surprise effect : a buzzy nightclub with a background of 80’s music.
-    The collection was not shown on the stand.
-    A few stands are decorated like workshops : small trades are featured (ex. the SEBAGO shoe brand demonstrated the know-how of its craftsmen).
 

  • Colors

-    Blues are the new basics, tending to replace blacks and grays. Navy blue predominates in all markets.
-    They are principally derived from turquoise blues, the follow-up to petrol blues worked from light to dark.
-    A predominance of chambray blues and lavendar blues.
-    The confirmation of bordeaux : also washed out, lighter, blackened bordeaux all the way to grayed pink.
-    Lots of ranges revolving around pigmented colors, played like essential neutrals (seen at Scotch & Soda)
-    The continuity of beiges and camels. This season, they are more colorful, caramelized, pinky, terracotta …
-    Less army khaki and less heathered and anthracite greys.
 

  • Key products

-    Still the presence of slacks and casual, more urban chinos : dropped crotches and tube legs. They are worked in a wide range of caramel beige, faded bordeaux, pine green and bleached petrol blue (ex. WESC)
-    Denim pants predominate : indigo blues, fairly clean stonewashings with authentic topstitchings. Regular shapes. No used, trashy or mended looks.
-    The solid or lumberjack plaid overshirt continues (still lots of still lots of double-faced textiles with contrasting lining effects). As a As a novelty, it is zipped with a rib edge like a blouson (ex. Superdry).
-    The teddy blouson with double fleece collar, a comfortable USA mood.
-    A tidal wave of seasonless chambray shirts (often worked authentically), they are done in all ranges of blues in wrinkled poplins, are washed out, in mock solids or with dots or stripes.
-    Lots of parkas which are worked more elegantly, urban or technical : zipper finishing and giant, mat metal snaps. Hybrid, multi-pocketed cropped ones in flannelized woolen with mat nylon finishes. A light, urban, padded down jacket to wear under a jacket.
-    The heavy-gauge knit blouson. Worked like an outerwear piece : two-tone jacquards in a pure Skiwear mood, often lined or bonded with polar fleece (ex. Superdry).
-    For women : comfy knits with giant rice stitches, a "pineapple" knit replaces cables.
-    Solid looks without tweeded or thrown yarns.

 
  • What changes

-    No more fatigue pants, they are replaced by looser slacks in fairly sophisticated neutral ranges.
-    Less wool suitings (solid, tweed, herringbone looks) the classic trend is fading (less duffle and pea coats).
-    No sailor stripes
-    Less big down jackets (Skiwear, a Monclers mood)
-    Less fur details on products
-    No velvet on pants and jackets
-    No decorated T-shirts or a continued vintage US mood (ex. Superdry)
-    Few jackets, instead hybrid pieces between blouson and cropped parka
 

  • Accessories

-    Lots of variations around "Docksider" boat shoes. Short or higher up, they are worked with natural materials : cotton canvas, leather edging inspired by the outdoor trend (ex. Sebago)
-    Urban sneakers in colored or neutral split leather.
-    Laced ankle boots in a mountaineering mood, in rough leather or shifted and fun in molded plastic with fluorescent laces (ex. Street Fashion).
-    Scarves and elegant North African head scarves (micro folk motifs)
-    To continue, lined chapkas.

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