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BREAD & BUTTER

SPRING SUMMER 2012, BERLIN, JULY 6-8, 2011

KEY POINTS AT THE FAIR

This season, in general, there was no revolution but instead an evolution in relation to past seasons :

  • The authentic, vintage trend continues (not as strong as in past seasons). It evolves with cleaner looks, more color. Still a strong presence of beige slack/blue shirt (denim or oxford cloth) silhouette.
  • The smart Preppy trend is developed in fresher, more pastel ranges tinged with a 50’s appeal.
  • Color is confirmed : it is omnipresent on pants and is developed on outerwear pieces

 

COLORS
 
  • White and off-whites : ecru, mastic, vanilla
  • Fresh pastels and bleached acidics : mandarin orange, mint green, turquoise blue, yellow, pink
  • Pinks and coral, intense or faded
  • Primary colors : golden yellow, vermilion red, strong blue, direct green
  • Blues are still present : from navy and indigo denim to chambray shirting
  • Caramel and golden beiges continue all the way to tobacco browns
  • Darks associate with white for a graphic, modern effect : bottle green, burgundy, navy

 

KEY PRODUCTS
 
  • An essential : colored slacks as pants and bermudas (also 5-pocket and denim cuts)
  • Pants are shorter, pegged or straight
  • Jackets are worn alone, often in light weights (shirting fabrics) and in color.
  • Workwear jackets in cotton canvas or denim
  • Nautical parkas in cotton or technical cotton in two-color patchworks
  • Technical blousons or lighter blousons in shirting weights
  • Denim shirting is an essential basic
  • The Oxford cloth shirt is worked in pastels, in retro stripes
  • Gingham is still present
  • Sailor stripes continue for sweaters
  • T-shirts and sweatshirts in colored heathers
  • T-shirts in more « arty », personalized, black and white prints
  • Newer : sailor tops with laced necklines like new woven sweatshirts
  • For women : a vintage, retro 40’s inspiration with fluid dresses in floral or scattered figurative prints

 

DENIM FOCUS
 
  • In general : jeans are more interesting and creative for men than for women
  • Simpler, cleaner jeans : less obvious treatments (fading or wearing out, less seaming …)
  • However insides are more worked : pockets, bias trims or waistbands lined with printed, checked or striped fabrics
  • Coatings have a leather look
  • NEW : two-tone inside/outside dyeing techniques, either in contrast colors or different bleached intensities (Salsa, One Green Elephant)
  • Despite a strong trend at Première Vision revolving around « green » and ethical jeans, not much communication has been done on this axis except at Japan Rags which developed a line called Japan Rags Zero, labeled « Zero Denim ». Washings for these models use not a single drop of water. The technology is based on a natural procedure of Oxygen enrichment which results in an Ozone gas. This naturally ages the jean canvas in an effect similar to the sun’s rays and bleaches the canvas. The brand plans to extend this technology to its entire Denim range.
  • A women’s trend of sculpted jeans with anatomical, ergonomic cuts (Salsa, LeRock)
  • Still for women, models get « women’s names » which are then used for merchandising and advertising
  • A few tweeded – slubbed denims

 

ACCESSORIES
 
  • Canvas and leather bags continue
  • Recolored, beautiful lace-up shoes with classic inspiration
  • Sneakers are more designed and simpler in more sophisticated colorways
  • Espadrilles also come in lace-up versions
  • Colored soles « disturb» more classic shoes
  • Topsiders and Riviera styles
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