BREAD & BUTTER TRADE FAIR, WINTER 2013-2014
January 15-16-17, 2012, Berlin
Always very inspirational, the Bread & Butter trade fair did indicate that budget restrictions were needed for brands to survive. Many « big names » did not attend (like Ralph Lauren, Levi’s, Diesel, Nike, Lacoste Live…) and only Scotch&Soda and Gstar had enormous stands. Tommy Hilfiger was present in the fair window, but did not exhibit his collections.
The advantage of these absences meant that smaller brands, often lost amidst the bigger labels, had more visibility.
The new color for winter 13-14 will be an ACID YELLOW, almost greenish yellow, that is transversal for men and women.
It is used in touches to brighten up harmonies and give the collections a jolt.
BURGUNDIES are still present but less so and evolve massively towards VIOLET AUBERGINES.
Women’s harmony : violet + nude + black or indigo.
Men’s harmony : violet aubergine navy / indigo + pine green.
The importance of TEAL BLUES and PETROLS (for men and women), which evolve all the way to TURQUOISES for women.
Men’s harmony : bleached teal + cool beige + black + gray-green + aqua + white.
Darker KHAKIS with more black and less yellow in them (for men and women).
Women’s harmony : khaki + black + gray + ecru + anise yellow.
Men’s harmony : khaki + indigo blue + beige + orange mustard.
OCHRES and MUSTARD YELLOW are still strong for men, they become a key essential.
Men’s harmony : with navy blue + indigo + sky blue.
Women’s harmony : mustard yellow + aubergine + gray flannel .
Refreshing, chlorophyl MINT GREENS (for men and women).
Women’s harmonies : mint green + khaki + aqua + gray + navy blue.
GRAYS, from anthracite to mid-range tones on jerseys, heathered fleeces, faded cottons, flannelized wools.
Only for men:
RUSTS resemble burned oranges plus gaudy tones and authentic fall colors.
Harmony : rust + chambray blue + anise khaki + khaki + rough indigo denim.
Only for women:
Harmonies revolve around ROSEWOOD all the way to NUDE PINKS in passing by slightly orangy pinks. We sense the strong influence of Chloe with total looks in monochromatic pinks.
MANDARIN ORANGES, less flashy than in past seasons, oranges are softer, almost diluted by milk.
Harmony : indigo denim / rosewood + nude and ecru.
PRINTS AND FABRICS
- BOILED WOOL for men or women, especially for pieces with sleeves. In authentic colors : ecru, red, navy blue, khaki … (seen at JOOP, Marco Polo).
- VELVETS, especially for women, whether they are smooth or baby-cord, solid or printed with mini motifs for pants and Western shirts. In crazy coloramas : mandarin, mustard, indigo violet, taupe gray, teal … (seen at JOOP, CAMPUS).
Also present for men, especially in smooth solid or print versions (fake tone-on-tone plaids, for casual dandy blazers.
- Lots of big boxy sweaters in HEAVY-GAUGE, THROWN YARN KNITS, often multicolored with more hold (for men and women) (seen at JOOP, ELEVEN PARIS, CAMPUS).
- ANIMAL PRINTS are still alive ! Unisex, recolored or authentic in maxi or mini scales, they are used throughout the entire wardrobe for sweatshirts, slim pants, outerwear pieces, thin printed cardigans and for linings, shoes and sneakers (seen at ADIDAS, K-WAY, NÜMPH, CRIMINAL DAMAGE, SINSTAR, RICH&ROYAL …)
- QUILTINGS are developed : in stripes, waves, mini or maxi diamonds on women’s trench coats, husky jackets, boxy sweatshirts, 70’s leather blousons, blazers and quilted varsity jackets for men (seen at K-WAY, WESC, ELEVEN PARIS, EDWIN…)
Only for women:
- TWEEDED WOOLENS for jackets, blousons, perfectos and coats (seen at ICHI, ELEVEN PARIS, MINIMUM, MARC’O POLO, CAMPUS…)
- HAIRY KNITS for sweaters and simpler cardigans to work in all ranges (seen at MINIMUM, ICHI).
Only for men:
- JACQUARD KNIT sweaters recalling recolored, multicolored neo folklore in unctuous heavy gauges, especially for men. Anything goes in terms of scale. We even dare to knit maxi stripes. In a turtleneck, cardigan, sweater and vest versions (seen at BELROSE, ESK, NUDIE JEANS).
- CAMOUFLAGE is very present for men. Already worn by trendy guys, they are mostly authentic (seen at ADIDAS, GSUS INDUSTRIES, HUMOR, MINIMUM, STRELLSON…)
We only mention one daring example, EDWIN’s cotton jacquard blouson in a black + navy fake tone-on-tone.
- FOLKLORE MOTIFS are in simplified and hybrid paisleys or reworked Slavic motifs, either scattered or allover. In oxford cloths and chambrays, dobbies or prints. (seen at SELECTED, ANERKJENDT, MINIMUM, RVLT REVOLUTION…)
- DUCK MOTIFS plus other birds and poultry. As jacquards, printed or embroidered, they liven up cotton shirtings, corduroy shirts, T-shirts and sweatshirts. (seen at ANERKJENDT, HUMOR, MINIMUM, RVLT REVOLUTION, CAMPUS…)
Besides ducks, the men’s wardrobe is also decorated with naive mini motifs like bees, carps, parachutists, fern or deer … (seen at BARBOUR, MINIMUM, WESC…)
- the importance of NOVELTY PANTS : slim versions in smooth printed velvets, stretch cotton jacquards or silky-look fluid jogging versions with flowers, ethnic motifs, erased paisleys or recolored animal skins … (seen at MINIMUM, JOOP, CAMPUS…)
- The COLLARLESS COAT will be THE winter 2013-2014 coat worked in egg or boxy shapes, mostly in novelty woolens (seen at SAMSOE & SAMSOE, WESC …)
- an essential piece that almost never goes out of fashion : the PERFECTO in three-tone leather, tweed, boiled wool + a shearling collar, patched and pieced (seen at ELEVEN PARIS, WUN HUNDRED, JOOP…)
- The return of rough or lighter FADED DENIMS. We saw big tables and walls covered in monochromatic, bleached, graded, used denims…
- A break with last summer’s key « Tempelhof of denim » approach and its homage to authentic, clean, rough denim.
- Denim ranges, which have essentially been in clean indigos for the past 3 seasons, now include GRAYS and BLACKS.
- Lots of JEAN JACKETS with different washings. Authentic treatments or cloudy khaki tie-dyes. (Seen at ELEVEN PARIS, WUN HUNDRED, JOOP…)
- The OVER-SHIRT flirts with the denim jacket. Lots of thick, mostly clean denim shirts in denim, wool flannel or cotton (in gray).
- Lumberjack, cotton flannel plaid shirts continue, recolored in 70’s colorways (orange, indigo, ecru. (seen at NUDIE JEANS, MINIMUM).
- The woven woolen VEST, part-cafe waiter, part-early 19th century craftsman or cowboy (seen at BROWN BEACH JACKET).
- the essential piece for winter 13-14 will be the SWEATSHIRT in its many incarnations : solid fleece with a chest insignia like a campus crest (in textured felt or mellow bouclette …) or with quilted sleeves and in paisley, animal skin or camouflage prints… (seen at ROY ROGER’S RUGGED, GSUS INDUSTRIES, MINIMUM).
A new masculine attitude was seen:
A new masculine style begins to emerge, the Hipster evolves as a late 19th century dandy, mixing arty bohemian codes with a touch of US workwear.
Typical look : a Charlie Chaplin bowler hat, chambray shirt with paisley motifs, flannel vest, boxy jacket in blurry paisley jacquard and brogues for the feet.
Our favorite men’s brand:
Our favorite women’s brand: (at Premium and also at WHO’S NEXT):
BAUM UND PFERDGARTEN (seen at Premium and WHO’S NEXT):
Cos minimalism + a slight Acne inspiration for certain color ranges (pale yellow + burgundy + gray) an intelligent mix of feminine and masculine looks.
GERTRUDE (seen at Premium) : pieces with sleeves, all lined with goosedown and a subtle down jacket colorama + our favorite : the two-piece outfit in foam with goosedown inside.
SAMSOE & SAMSOE