MODA IN TRADE FAIR, WINTER 14/15
Milan September 10, 11, 12, 2013
A calmer mood than previous seasons was sensed in the fair’s aisles, but lots of business was going on at the stands.
Less exhibitors overall, especially in Hall 4, more targeted for leisure wear.
Overall idea: "Beauty will save the world" by Dostoyevsky
2 strong themes
ARISTOCRATIC TRAITS and BARBARIAN CHARM
Key words: diaphanous, smooth, essential, romantic, naivety
Light color range: whites, nude pinks, blues and tender grays… yellows and tea greens
Timeless color range: greiges, gray flannel, Burgundy reds, royal blue, emerald, precious black
Fabrics: Delicate, textured embroideries, printed tulles, precious transparencies, organzas and satin organzas, lightweight silks with a frosted look, laces enriched by yarns with light, romantic floral prints, arabesque filigree motifs, dobbies and jacquards that are more discrete than baroque, smooth or velvet looks, flockings in monochromes, flannelized looks or real, softer gray flannel, angora woolens, ultra-soft furs (for example, angora goat hair)
Key words: rural, metallurgical, chaotic, aggressive, obscure.
Color range: warm tones, rusts, yellow ochres, mustards, natural greens, metal colors, Manga brights, gray and black.
Fabrics: Leather looks: carapaces or built-up patent leathers, natural or bizarre snakeskins, tartans and panther skin, flannelized plaids, shadow plaids, folklore embroideries and jacquards with a "handmade" look, heavy rustic weaves, a Scandinavian mood, trompe l’œil weaves and printed knits on basic fabrics, “blanket” stripe woolens, mock-solid tweeds, multicolored and brushed mohair plaids, spotted prints and psychedelic camouflages, multicolored furs, luminous sequins, bouclette plaids, crow feathers, metallic looks (copper, steel, brass), metallic blacks.
In general, a “sensible” season with timeless fabrics updated by technical finishings, feminine and precious fabrics.
- A multitude of spacers and 3-D synthetic weaves replace the foambacks of recent seasons for sport or fashion
- Bondeds and double-faces, contrast natural/technical fabrics,
- Mat coatings on sportswear cottons or flannels, transparent mat coatings on classic woolens
- Sport fabrics, down jacket nylons, digital prints
- Sporty cottons in a Mackintosh style
- Mohair woolens, often brushed and comfy
- Flannels, mostly in grays
- Comfy, russet furs
- Interlock knits, flannelized or fluid woolens in rayon
- Wool embroideries
- Flocked prints
- Dobbies and silky jacquards in a dandy mood, precious but not ostentatious
- Metallic looks with copper as a novelty
- Flashy, bizarre novelties, sequins with luminous effects, multicoloreds and dichroics in allovers or trims
Not to be missed :
SUSTAINABILITY-LAB: a group of Italian fabric and trim manufacturers on a digital platform
Each manufacturer highlights, in a guide, their specialities including:
Accountability, waste, water, energy or CO2 management, stockholder engagements, charity, sustainable provisions, recycled/2nd life, traditions/craftmanship, fair and ethical practices, sustainable production, dyeing and finishing, zero kilometers, animal welfare and biodiversity, traceability.
- The "BLANKET" exhibition by Laura Ambrosi, sculptures in engraved methacrylate