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PITTI FILATI

Fall Winter 12-13, Florence, July 5-7, 2011

 Colors

Rich ranges associating intense colors with deep, dark tones.

  • Flamboyant reds, burgundies and plums.
  • Fuchsia, bougainvillea, violet pinks.
  • Mandarin, vermilion oranges.
  • Tarnished, mustard, bronze yellows
  • Indigo, electric, violet, ultra-violet blues
  • Dark jade, teal, emerald, pine greens
  • Pinky, glazed chestnut and dark browns
  • Even if they remain very present, light neutrals, grays and beiges … are less important.

 

Fabrics

  • Fur is everywhere

Many propositions of fur yarns in natural or dark-toned colors with long « hairs » and more precious, mat or satiny looks.

Bouclés such as Astrakhan develop, always worked mossy, light and very soft.

These yarns are sometimes composed of Alpaca or Mohair with very visible slubs.

  • Metallics are everywhere

In a feminine version on thin, fluid grounds : rayon, Merino wool … but also for carded yarns with Shetland, Mohair, natural Alpaca, bouclette or heavy gauge looks to make sporty or rustic wools more sophisticated.

There are also propositions of glittery yarns with a more definite shine, some play up irregular placements which define blurry stripes once they are knit. 

  • Colored novelties develop

Printed yarns are worked in astro-dyed looks with a vintage 70’s inspiration in classic wool or Mohair blends, mostly in fine gauges.

Prints and irregular thrown yarns create blurry, random, graded effects.

Two or three-tone thrown yarns in graphic contrast colors are worked in mid-or heavy gauges.

  • Mock-solids are renewed

Classic heather, jaspé, thrown or tweed yarns evolve with new techniques for blends. They play with shadow effects, blurry multicolors or subtly shot effects and sometimes imitate recycled wools. They can be napped or brushed for even blurrier or more smoky effects.

Or they are more graphic : tufted and marbleized looks with mineral inspiration, fake black & white contrasts with printed yarns for pixelized effects, contrast strands or slubs, two-tone frizzy bumps, yarns wrapped irregularly in a contrast strand which every so often lets the hidden color appear.

  • Alpaca becomes more sophisticated

Since sport looks evolve into more feminine, chic versions, Alpaca has become a pillar of the collections.

It can be in ultra-fine gauges with voile looks, knit with Vinilal which disappears after washing, to leave just an airy jersey.

Sometimes it is felted but remains supple and soft. Many propositions in napped, mossy, light-as-a-feather yarns.

Mohair propositions are also in Camel or Yak at certain spinners.

  • Ecology and recycling

Recycling was the theme of the trend forum and was found in certain propositions from spinners : recycled wools, yarns with a recycled denim base whose range is developed via the different washings, mock-solid colorways resembling wool (blurry multicolors on neutral grounds).

A few propositions also in ecological wool (animals raised organically, no chemical products used to treat wool).

  • A few appearances of velvet yarns

Either mat, with cotton, for sportier, polar fleece fur looks or satiny and more sophisticated with rayon or microfiber nylon.

  • « Second skin » stretch yarns

Very fine yarns with a Merino or rayon base associated with polyamide, Modal microfiber or nylon, resulting in a slippery hand.

  • Still moire softness

Lots of mellow, ultra-soft, mossy, light yarns but also yarns with a « cashmere hand » in blends combining Alpaca with rayon or rayon with nylon microfiber …

 

Conclusion

A season which emphasizes softness and natural sophistication that sees the return of low-key novelty items.

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