PITTI FILATI TRADE FAIR
Florence, January 23, 24, 25, 2013
Despite a calm, sensible appearance, the fair, smaller than for the winter season, had a party theme : FIESTA. We saw this cheerfulness in a rich fair that offered subtler, more refined, less showy propositions than in recent seasons.
This summer, the ranges are generally softer and more vivid, while brights are not as blunt or basic.
We see subtler, more worked secondary colors in solids, tone-on-tone thrown yarns and lightly bleached, slightly faded two-tones.
We also see richer, more colorful effects such as yarns that blend 3 or 4 contrast colors in vibrant, blurry looks.
Light, almost white neutrals.
Milky, cool, fresh pastels : sky blue, mauve, tender greens.
Fresh, intense pinks and grenadine reds.
Golden yellows and mandarine oranges.
Blues, navy blues or indigo denims.
Greenish or blue-toned turquoises.
Silky browns and khakis.
A Natural mood
The evolution of linen : it is now less rustic, cleaner, more colorful and modern.
The development of mid or heavy gauges and single, more casual knits that look hand-knit, also heavy summer gauges are slightly rustic in a sport chic mood.
Linen colors are less neutral and enriched by bright tones.
Ramie, hemp and jute are often blended with cotton and sometimes worked in a less rough, more designed mood which is smoother or has long slubs.
The same effect for silk, worked in a shantung mood.
Lots of frayed ribbons for knits with a “rag rug” look.
A focus on ultra-light, puffy, heavy gauges like a cotton ribbon stuffed with a textured polyamide or thinner yarns in cotton/cashmere/silk or mohair/silk blends…
To note, a follow-up to mossy crepes and gauzy bouclettes.
A focus on stretch basics without elastane that are beautiful, comfortable and classic : rayon, pima cotton, super-fine merino wool, silk, linen … often blended with Elité yarns.
To note, in a search for comfort, a “quick dry” wool and refreshing cotton crepes.
Less “bling” satiny yarns, meanwhile silky yarns are more mat, thinner, more slippery and less fluid than in past seasons.
Metallics are either very flashy or very mat, worked in subtle tones from pearly colors to pinky gold in passing by steel gray. Newer: multicolored metallic effects.
Linen is precious, blended with silk or else discreetly metallicized by gold touches in all gauges.
Casual silks for everyday are worked with linen, cotton, wool.
Transparencies are filtered and light with an organza look.
To be continued…
Recycled fibers come from finished products or recycled cotton (Olimpias).
Recycled linen is currently being developed (Linificio Canapificio Nazionale).
· In general, we loved the chunky gauges for summer and modernized linens.
· The organic silks from Thailand shown in the context of the SCRIPT project, we especially liked the natural, golden yellow silk from RUENMAI-BAIMON.
· The LINEA PIU archives can be consulted by appointment.
· The poetic films (a drop of water, a flower blooming …) projected on simple white sweaters at BAGIOLI.
· A colorama of soaps at MILLEFILI.