Paris, February 12, 13, 14, 2013
This season offered a particularly rich fair : a sophisticated, novelty selection that was less bling and ostentatious than in past seasons. The surprises, besides just being visual, were found “inside” fabrics by turning them over or touching them to discover unexpected yarn mixes and contrast combinations.
Double weaves and bonded fabrics
- double weaves in all types of materials : jerseys and interlocks, satins, gauzes, crepes, synthetics. In the same mood, many “couture” duchesse satins.
- double colors and double fabrics with definite contrasts : double two-tone satins, duets of colored cotton canvas plus heather gray jersey, cotton tarpaulin plus a sueded hand, glossy synthetic plus mat cotton, jersey plus satiny taffeta … especially developed on casual or sport fabrics.
- coatings on contrast grounds offered many right side/wrong side effects.
Textures and 3-D shapes
More pronounced than ever and in all sectors :
- lots of waffles, cloqués and puffy effects at silk producers add volume to lightweight gauzes,
- larger piqués and more defined honeycombs from cotton and wool producers,
- quilteds and quilted-effect jacquards on jerseys,
- embossed motifs on silkies and sport fabrics,
- guipure laces and giant eyelet embroideries, Cornely embroidery accents on laces …
With, this season, a focus on wicker and caning effects, often imitated in jacquards ; tweeds and colored effects in simple fibers or enriched by raffia or metallic yarns.
A return to “handmade” rustic looks
- woven paper ribbons or frayed ribbons resembling rag rugs,
- more precious, slubbed silk broadcloths, tussah and bourrette silks,
- lots of slubs, even on jerseys,
- the importance of linen or ramie blends : linen/silk, linen/cotton, linen/wool.
Reflections and glossies
Still lots of metallic looks in wovens, as coatings on silkies, mixed with tweeds or for fluid knits :
- silver and gold paired, on one hand, with blues and turquoises,
- or else with khakis and watery greens on taffeta and voile grounds,
- in the same mood, shot sequins remind us of mermaids,
- a focus on iridescent yarns, cellophane transparencies and pearlized looks.
Transparencies and openworks
- stiffer, more opaque transparencies with chalky looks, organza is a hit,
- in parallel, lots of gauzes in all materials,
- a focus on larger eyelet embroideries in a 60’s mood, laser-cut motifs and all types of nettings.
More weightiness this season with crepes, silky satins and synthetic suitings.
PRINT AND PATTERN SPECIAL
to note, lots of embroideries and photoprints.
- birds : ibis, pink flamingos and parakeets in placed motifs or allover feather motifs.
- photoprint landscapes, Scandinavian beaches or exotic shorelines with palm trees.
- Blurry, watercolored, melted, faded florals in bright colors,
- wavy, giant chrysanthemums, “Leonard-style” outlined flowers in monochromatic blues on fluid grounds,
- line-drawn, freehand sketches on lightweight cottons,
- embroidered and appliqued flowers on voiles and organzas, giant and textured in a folk or pop mood.
Spots with watery inspiration
New camouflages in monochromatic blues and turquoises : marbleized tie-dyes, spotty, micro mock solids, shimmery or graded spots …
Brushstroke or printed plaids, contrast two-tones or blurry multicolors.
Updated interpretations of ancestral motifs : acidic Indian paisleys, Central European cross-stitching, Asian ikats, Mongolian rug motifs, Australian paintings … etc…
SPECIAL FOR MEN
- Rustic weaves : basketweaves, braids, twills and textured herringbones in a retro, ethno-graphic mood,
- Textures : honeycombs, seersuckers…
- Linen, very present this season, mostly blended with cotton, worked on fine grounds (voiles, lightweight shirtings) or sturdier with denim treatments (overdyes, washings)
- Lighter denims, either blended with linen in a rustic workwear mood and recolored in soft ranges from faded work blue to cord beige,
Or else in a chambray mood for still very-present denim looks, enriched this season with dobbie motifs.
- A focus on stripes
Wide stripes, stick stripes and recolored, horizontal, deck stripes …
- Plaids are less present
To retain : bigger madras plaids with giant repeats,
- Dobbies : dots, scattered figuratives … in shirtings, especially on plaids and stripes,
- Piqués and oxford cloths are still very present, respectively, for knits and shirtings.
- Double-face technical fabrics, mostly in knits.
- Bleached grounds, enriched whites, tone-on-tones, dobbies, textures.
- Still more lightness, often in cotton/linen voile.