TISSU PREMIER TRADE FAIR
Lille, June 13 and 14, 2012
For the first time, TISSU PREMIER was joined with the COLLECTIONS trade fair under the banner of FAST FASHION LILLE. This initiative increased visitors since it offered both Winter collections and Summer updates from the 140 fabric companies exhibiting.
The convivial, business-like mood included a free breakfast and an exhibit on the fabric innovations which will be shown at the upcoming FUTUROTEXTILES organized by CETI (the European Center for Innovative Textiles) that will take place this Fall.
In the forum
“Old-style” mannequins showed key silhouettes for each fashion mood in next winter’s most distinctive fabrics.
A couture mood predominates : baroque, extravagant, ornamental and glamorous … complemented by a silky, elegant fluidity.
Colors are opulent and warm : flamboyant, deep reds, sumptuous violets, amber yellows and golds.
A focus on silkies, rich prints and lamé jacquards : Versace style “scarf” prints on satin grounds, multicolored, lamé florals, textured, golden jacquards, “haute couture” re-embroidered silkies …
Tie prints in a masculine pajama mood are worked on fluid, nonchalant silkies as are paisley and calico motifs in a William Morris style.
Suit-weight woolens in a vintage mood are enriched with delicate yarns. We note the arrival of slashed panne velvets which resemble astrakhan.
This couture mood is marked by new fabrics from the active sport world reinterpreted in a more fashion direction : bonded twills, silky soft shells and compact, lightweight, supple yet protective foams.
A romantic, soft, cozy, precious story for the everyday.
The color palette is developed in all variations of pinks from powderies to lipstick brights. Neutrals are light and delicately tinted like pastels or more cottony in violet or turquoise half-tones.
A focus on comfy, mellow, puffy woolens for knits or wovens, updated in tender colors and coordinated with denims or double, round, suiting fabrics in a 60’s mood.
Silkies, especially satin crepes, are unctuous or weighty in solids or watercolor-printed florals, cloqués, moirés or discreet metallics.
An abundance of floral prints : pen-and-ink flowers, placed garden bouquets on dark chiffons, mid-season cottons or allover, Liberty-style pansies.
We note giant, placed, vintage portraits printed on jersey T-shirts. Plenty of shirting checks and tiny mohair knits, tweeded woolens worked in softer shades.
A natural, vegetation, mineral or animal inspiration. A super-natural, rich, fantastic story of camouflages and mimicry.
The importance of greens : forest, pine, moss, blue-toned and deep associated with rusts, reddish ochres, browns and naturals.
A focus on more marked, colorful, blurry looks than in past seasons : monochromatic or multicolored thrown and tweed yarns for knits or wovens, often brushed, sometimes with a handcrafted look.
This season, we note a return of English woolens and mid-weight masculine tweeds in all shades of grays.
Prints are linked to nature : photoprints of trees, forests, birds of prey, snakes and leopards are blended and composed in placed motifs on ultra-feminine silkies or T-shirt knits.
To note, in parallel to real army camouflages, worked this season on flannels, we see new camouflages in an abstract, multicolored mood. Marbleized effects that imitate minerals as seen under a microscope are printed on knits and silky wovens.
Lots of jacquard knits with Art Deco style geometric motifs.
A focus on fake furs and two-tone, blurry furs worked in natural tones like fox and associated with fake suedes such as lambskin.
A futurist, designed, sport, couture theme that is glamorous or structured.
A mood of blacks, nocturnal or bright blues, plums and metallic grays.
Here too, lots of metallic silkies and steel sequins in a techno couture mood with mat silver or shiny scale looks for outer-space mermaids.
Blacks are precious, glossy and reflective, feminine lamés or coated lacquers are found on technical fabrics and sportswear cottons.
This couture mood is marked by new fabrics from the active sport world that are reinterpreted for fashion : bonded twills, silky soft shells and compact, light, supple yet protective foams.
Knits also come from the sport world : jogging fleeces, heat-regulating wools or padded jerseys.
A focus on structured woolens with textured, compact, double-faced, bonded weaves for more formal suits and coats.
In an 80’s mood, we also note more masculine, slubbed suitings and brightly-flecked woolens on dark grounds or rich, discreet blurries.
In the same way, motifs are blurred and vibrant with abstract, crisp, spotty prints in grayed monochromes.
More unexpected : spots and kaleidoscopic watercolor effects on fluid silkies or junior knits.
Couture, fluid or crisp silkies
All the shiny effects, especially metallic looks
Abstract and blurry motifs
Comfy, light woolens
Double woolens and compact woolens
Fabrics from the active sport world