TRANOÏ PREVIEW “avant première collection”
This season, the TRANOÏ fair took place earlier than usual with a preview of the Winter 13-14 collections. This is a new chapter in the fair’s history, brands can show their pre-collections in January before men’s fashion week and the couture shows instead of waiting for the usual Tranoï show in February.
Unfortunately there were less visitors since, besides the snowy weather, the show took place at the same time as the Who’s Next, Lingerie and Maison & Objet fairs.
However, it was still interesting.
It is important to remember that this fair’s goal is to launch young designers internationally. It focuses on brands with special know-how who work with family-run factories, use handmade details and promote Made in France…
It is difficult to say what were the overall trends since this is a little fair where different sectors are represented in small quantities (ready-to-wear, accessories, perfumes, …) however an important point to note is the increase of mono-product brands.
More boutiques seem interested in mono-product brands. The idea is to find the best product in a sector by buying from specialized labels who have made choices and developed true know-how.
We liked Raphaella Riboud’s ultra-luxury pajamas : a 350 € retail price for cotton pajamas all the way to 1300 € for evening pajamas in silk broadcloth or a Noé tie print with delicate doves, perfect for lounging in a relaxed, chic, timeless style.
We also noted fur specialists such as 32 Paradis, Sprung Frère collection Plume and Indès and Maréchal.
Fur is worked in simplified, ultra-modern egg or boxy shapes with precise, quality finishings. We liked the fur collar accessories, cardigan coats, fur sweatshirts and sweaters in knitted shearling ribbons.
Sprung Frère collection Plume’s color range is more daring from emerald green, dark red and geranium violet all the way to coral red and aqua, neutralized by anthracite gray and midnight blue.
More vegetation color ranges for 32 Paradis : khaki, greige, blacks and gray emphasize the reversible looks of these products.
The materials developed for these 3 brands vary between recolored mink, astrakhan, two-tone shearling or animal knits associated with cashmere coating fabrics and novelty woolens.
Finally, Marcha Huskes from Amsterdam develops only sleeveless or long-sleeved sheath dresses in milanos and wool jerseys.
Simple, comfortable, everyday or evening shapes are worked in solid colors or color blocks.
Elsewhere, our favorite brand was Vmajor, a guy-girl pair from China who mix and match an original selection of Italian fabrics. Their cuts are precise, though sometimes a bit complicated. The textile research and high-quality workmanship reminded us of Proenza Schouler.
We also saw a few brands better known to the general public such as Cacharel, Paul & Joe Sister, Athé by Vanessa Bruno, Le Mont St Michel…
To remember, a few points in common with other fairs like Bread & Butter, Premium and Who’s Next :
- hairy, alpaca and angora type knits in a wide range of colors (tender pastels or autumnal tones)
- lurex jacquards, mostly solid or simple two-tones for coats, jackets, skirts and pants. They are everywhere in the wardrobe.
- boiled wool, especially for coats
- printed babycord
- more neo-perfectos in woolens or leather
- the best coat is collarless