TRADE
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WHO’S NEXT TRADE FAIR, WINTER 2014-2015

Despite an overall standardization of the trade fair’s offer - 90% of the brands present are easy, casual labels - the collections did have a visual roughness.
We saw great diversity in fabric sourcing : lots of neutrals revolving around grays plus blurry effects with an assortment of motifs.

For most brands, each product is made in a different fabric, therefore a material will not be found twice in the same collection.

COLORS

Ongoing colors :
- Gray flannel : omnipresent and heathered, blurry, often in light versions, sometimes associated with cream
- Burgundy : still present in the collections but not new
- Navy blue : worked as a classic color, necessary for updating harmonies
- Mustard yellow : not as present but still current, it evolves towards russet-ochres
- Khaki and pine green : still strong in new military versions
- Teal blue /green : strong in knits or as a ground for prints
-  Ecrus /off-whites : often worked together or with light gray flannel in the image of PeclersParis’ Awakening theme.
- Nude pinks : less present, they evolve towards rosewood or an ultra-luminous salmon

The season’s accents :

Bright orange : the season’s bright color, 1 or 2 pieces of it show up randomly to liven up a collection. This energetic orange recalls the sport world but can extend to a less luminous, 60’s orange that is toned down by the addition of black.
- French blue / royal blue : it electrifies and modernizes dark collections made in black or neutrals.
- Less present or obviously absent : camels, pinks and reds

Innovative, but still discreet :
- Russet-ochres and also hazelnut, tile red or caramel. They continue in the mustard-yellow direction and can even replace camel. Used for heavy gauge knits, corduroys and cotton crepes.
Vert de grisand grayed greens : they replace nudes and often calm down a color harmony.

FABRICS

Lots of sharpness, fabrics are bulky, thick and woolly. Wool is clearly the season’s star.
- Glen plaid woolens : « clean » or blurry, shadowy or tweeded for jackets and coats.
- Tweeded, bouclette, brushed, mossy, colored wools
-  Flannels : heathered in grays or light colors, bulky for coats, jackets, boxy tops and pants.
- Cotton crepe : silkies are less visible and replaced by cotton crepes for blouses and dresses, mostly as print grounds rather than solids.
- Jerseys and fleeces in jacquards and quiltings : padded effects and spongy 3-D looks update sweatshirts

Elsewhere, hairy knits or wovens (alpaca, angora,…) will have a great future.
- Furs continue ! from sheared sheepskin to multicolored animal spots in passing by wild, hairy furs

Finally, Lurex yarns embellish jacquards, solids and colored knits.

Prints and patterns
- Floral vegetation camouflages in dark colors
- Plaids in coat-weight woolens, in suitings for pants or in brushed cotton for shirtings
- Dark jacquards with rug or folklore motifs
- Dark florals in a vintage Kenzo style
- Animal skins continue !
- Chalk stripes
- Mohair plaids
- Allover embroideries

The most important PRODUCTS

- Pieces seen everywhere
The masculine coat with single buttoning in novelty plaids, jacquards or flannel woolens is an essential piece of the season.
- Printed pants
- The authentic or hybrid sweatshirt
- The loose « grunge » sweater in ungauged knit
- The cover-up dress in all fabrics
- The jacquard sweater

- Pieces spotted here and there
- The shawl-collared blazer in a dark jacquard
- Denim overalls
- The bomber jacket
- The heavy woolen blazer
- Big woolen skirts in flouncy, below-knee shapes (worn with a sweatshirt)
- The printed down jacket
- The entirely-embroidered skirt hem
- Stan Smith sneakers

Brands with the strongest identities
Swildens
Sophie D’Hoore
Essentiel
Bellerose
Tinsels
Petit Bateau
My Pant’s /Chloé Stora
Gat Rimon

 

 

 

 

 

 

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