2011, September 20-22 - Paris
Aisles overflowing with visitors and inviting stands with rich colors and novelties !!!
We loved the MAISON D’EXCEPTION (Exceptional Companies) area, dedicated to textile designers from around the world.
Another favorite : the pretty collection of vivid lace tops by designer Céline Méteil presented on an « ephemeral boutique » stand.
Lamés, embroidered sequins and metallic coatings in natural metal colors : silver, tin, steel, copper and gold.
Patinated or flashy looks on chiffons, laces, taffetas, panne velvets, jerseys, fleeces and technical sport fabrics.
In bright colors, essentially for lamés and coatings.
Glossy and lacquered looks
Glosses worked in dark, nocturnal colors on laces, silkies and reflective woolens woven with smooth, transparent metallo-plastic fibers.A focus on black : lamé, sequinned, lacquered, luxurious. Lacquered, waxed looks on laces and guipures.
A focus on silky, fluid satins … either solid or as a base for prints.
All types of smooth softness : silky pannes and velvets which recall pony furs.
« Sport » fabrics like foambacked, bonded, softshell jerseys are not just used for sports.
Thick, woolly, bonded fabrics are woven or knitted.
Quiltings and 3-D textures
Taffetas, fake skins and plastics are quilted, wrinkled, gathered, smocked, cloqué’d …
In a rough mood, lots of blurry, tweeded, slubbed woolens in natural colors or black and white.
A return to precious or woolly yarn-dyed jacquards with Oriental patterns or abstract spots.
- Strict, linear geometrics (layered squares, shifted frames, wide graphic stripes) are suppler on chiffon and satin grounds.
- Multicolored, kaleidoscopic or tribal spots with multicolored feather motifs have a camouflage effect on silkies, including satins.
- Paisleys and palm leaves are worked as bases and in large sizes for a scarf mood in monochromatics or « pop » brights.
- Generous, multicolored, painted flowers are blurred by printed warps, layerings or spots and sometimes livened up by fluorescent accents or flashy colors.
- Placed, contrast, silhouetted flowers have an Asian influence.
- Misty, spotty, informal, blurry, lamé, reflected florals in gray or blue-toned gradings.
- A camouflage mood continues this season with small-scale printed or woven snakeskins.
To note :
Lots of informal, blurry, go-everywhere motifs, even for giant placed, landscape patterns … a good way to use color !
- Rich outerwear pieces and knits
- Not much newness for shirtings
- Suppler sanded fabrics and pant weights
- Flannelized looks continue … newer on urban grounds (for jackets or shirtings)
- Woolen looks on denim
- Slubbed looks on all grounds (urban and casual)
- Leather-like coatings and oiled looks continue
- Lots of « foam » backings for knit or woven outerwear pieces
- Classic « Saville Row » stripes
- Two-tone and blackened effects with pigment prints and overdyed looks on all grounds
- Functional wools :mock-solid suitings and classic British woolens are coated and water-repellent.
- Extremely light down jackets, increasingly featherweight fabrics and taffetas with ultra-protective, stretch membranes are worked in bright colors such as turquoise, pink, orange or tone-on-tone mock solids.
- Satiny shine and subtle metallic reflections (mainly for coatings) of bronze, silver, steel, copper … simple or double-faced, on all weights.
- High-performance knits are climatic, have membranes, more natural hands and are in softshell second-skins.
- Ecology is now more axed on manufacturing : fabric producers respect the environment.