Neo-bourgeoises in trench coats and young descendants of punk culture: London’s esthetic and creative mash-up once again put its stamp on the English Fashion Week. The stand-out was this season’s most anticipated runway show, by Riccardo Tisci at Burberry, which reflects this double inheritance well, torn between references to Victorian classicism and punkettes in miniskirts, with straps and message T-shirts. It’s a transgenerational, internationalist approach to fashion, with the advantage of keeping all options open. Victoria Beckham, meanwhile, celebrated her brand’s 10thbirthday with great ceremony, embodying the chic, minimalist, Phoebe Philo-inspired esthetic more than ever. And finally, JW Anderson caught the eye – the young British designer who incarnates all London’s vitality and creativity. His approach, experimental as ever, becomes somewhat more serene and controlled this season. Ahead of Brexit, due to happen in 2019, London Fashion Week gives us plenty to think about, but leaves us largely won over by the optimism and joyful, festive inspirations of young designers like Natasha Zinko, Ashish, and Martha Jakubovski.
The highlights of the season :CLASSICISM EXPERIMENTAL OPTIMISTIC DARK DRAMA
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