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5 outstanding fashion attitudes from the Winter 12-13 shows


1. Lanvin fall 12 2 Stella McCartney    photos © www.style.com

Shaped shoulders and a total dark look: the 90s powerful working girl spirit, in between efficient glamour and elegant rigour, is filtered through a retro-futuristic screen. For today’s conquering girls.
- Classical morphing at Lanvin. In night shades, sculptural, remarkable, inflated, exaggerated volumes shape out within ultra-dense, modelling, neoprene-drapery.
- Sharpened to the shoulders and fitting the hips at Stelly Mc Cartney. The tailor-made tradition gets a modern, aerodynamic twist: moulded directly on the curves and smoothed with ash tweed.


1. Proenza Schouler fall 12 2. Prada fall 12    photos © www.style.com

Dramatic, exuberant beauty driven by a multi-reference, all the way attitude.
Offbeat and audacious, it stages grammars of style from here and elsewhere, yesterday and tomorrow. Shifting without any complex from one code to another: from orient to Europe’s old royalty or to the emerging 60s pop culture.
- Interfering games at Proenza Schouler: warrior look and Geisha teddy braided with birds of Paradise on obi skirt. Traditional weaving techniques collide and merge with pop and Far East references.
- Royal Bollywood at Prada: bi-flavor hair, neon make-up, wrap-around skirt in indian style on  burning floor trousers mix up with sixties psychedelic Jacquard and ethnic-bling embroidery.


1. Stella McCartney fall 12 2. Celine fall 12    photos © www.style.com

The active urban girl, all at once elegant and efficient, pragmatic and sexy.
Technical materials, muscular, ergonomic volumes and their graphical signage games, all borrowed from sports codes, underline and tonify the silhouette.
- athletic glam with Stella Mc Cartney: tweed stretch patchwork and pearly neoprene on a fit puzzle dress drape and dance to increase movement, with electric Klein blue strokes.
- sporty chic at Celine: graphical composite jacket with a protecting, high-powered volume, on flowing pants.


1. Hermès fall 12 2. Damir Doma fall 12    photos © www.style.com

A globetrotter purist that cultivates itinerant chic and sensual sobriety, on her way to the Undefined Elsewhere. Elementary yet generous, nomadistic reminiscences interfere with the dressing room, turning it into luxuous travelwear.
- ”gaucha” elegance at Hermès: trousers tucked into leather boots, shoulders-laid poncho and overlapping protective covers, all sublime in noble materials
- On the Road to Spices at Damir Doma: saffrons and dune sands associate with ginger in comfortable layers of kaftan and saris. Ethnical details fade out, as if erasing along the way.


1. 2. Jil Sander fall 12    photos © www.style.com

An erotic, ingenuous game played by a falsely naive, neo-romantic girl, halfway through retro influences and radical modernism. Combining neat, clean redesigned volumes from the late 40s and the sweet, strange softness of chemical roses.
- For his ultimate collection at Lanvin, Raf Simons updates vintage-inspired, bourgeois pieces. By applying technical material and strict geometrical rules, he lights them up with fresh pink gradients and shimmering glitters.
- Squeaky chic boarding school for Jil Sander Navy: fragile allure, troubling young fresh looks, virginal headbands, pretty knots and retro volumes stitched with chemical pastels.