• Google+
  • linkedin


Fashion Week Menswear Fall 12-13


1. Dior homme 2 Prada. 3. Paul Smith 4. Dries Van Noten images © www.style.com

From Paris to Milan, a wave of martial discipline has taken over most of the creators... Here's a selection of some of the best officer style variations:
Dior Homme's military regularity and approach, and Chris Van Assche and his army of neo soldiers, both pacify the military hats and 'Poiret' hoods, with a modern sporty-chic look,  smoothened by pitch black, off-white or khaki and accessorized with anachronistic aviator sunglasses.
Long gone Verdun and the trenches, here Prada convenes an imagery of Napoleon aristocratic defence staff (image 2): medals, stripes, Astrakhan collars... In between tribute and desecration, splendor and decadence, "a parody of male power", according to Miuccia.
Another spirit with Paul Smith (image 3): in nocturnal darks, officer coats get ready for the city with a shock-proof chassis and a cut shell, while Dries van Notten (image 4) comes in street-chic variations, psychedelic all-over associations, inspired by caustic Frank Zappa.


1. Acne 2. Kenzo 3. Louis Vuitton 4. Burberry Prorsum   images © www.style.com

Chic and functional, the rural “hunting and fishing” gentleman farmer's traditional dressing rooms are revisited for the city. The lad jacket, on all sides and from every angle, gets new codes: XXL padding, bombers hybrid or overshirt in a more street-like renewal with Acne (image 1), while Kenzo (image 2) reworks it in a cosy, pyjama-like way, with graphical fantasy.
On the other side, the timeless, made in England Barbour coat changes the key, just as a Louis Vuitton coat (image 3), or gets a radical, design cut with Burberry Prorsum (image 4).


1. Philip Lim 2. Jil Sander 3. Givenchy 4. Burberry Prorsum 5. Lanvin    images © www.style.com

Whether in small shock-effect strokes or in a total look, in multicolor escalation or in bold two-colors, generic geometrical shapes and stylized patterns massively deploy. Philip Lim animate knits, in between enlarged pixels and abstract constructivism (image 1). Jil Sander boldly tries the figurative joke (image 2). Indeed, stripes in all their forms, with their sharp, graphical impact, definitely impose themselves this season. At Givenchy, stripes underline finishing touches, like a black-white-red flag. They're worked in scale and heights shifts at Burberry Prorsum. Finally, they get more radical and overplayed in a total binary look with Lanvin.