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Florence, July 4, 5, 6, 2012

A wonderful, busy mood at the Pitti Filati trade fair with rich new propositions from spinners for a season under the sign of “Renaissance”.
Fabrics are luxurious and sophisticated, not at all rustic and natural. The influence of a “couture” mood is more important than ever.


- colored effects
whether in a light neutral mood or in more intense colors, spinners play up richness with heathers, thrown yarns, graded effects, space-dyes, tone-on-tone colored effects, monochromes and blurries … subtle and chic.

- a focus on mohair and all the downy, light, airy, puffy or more novelty, “feathery” yarns which resemble swan’s down or longer hairy effects, almost like airy furs in a “boa” style.
To note : new, fine, strand yarns for this “light and fluffy” direction.

- a focus on bouclettes, small and tight or thick and plump, often worked in cashmere and mohair imitating lamb … mellow and sensual.

- a focus on velvets,
chenille yarns become thin and mat for smooth “velvet” or satiny knits and faded, panne velvet effects

- lots of plush, faded, very soft yarns like terrycloth.

- alpaca, camel and yak down embellish and soften the most basic knits which are seen everywhere, pure or blended with cashmere in fine and mid-range gauges.
Fine gauges are very important this winter while merinos and cashmeres become essential.

- “frosty“
surface effects on soft angora knits or else obtained from metallic-plastic effects in blends with woolen yarns

- a camouflage mood
developed in army or forest versions in harmonies of greens, khakis and bronzes with irregular or tweeded yarns.

- gold and silver are still very present, now subtle and muffled, the newest blended together for a delicate tarnished effect, worked alone or in intimate blends with downy yarns.
We also note the arrival of multicolored metallics on silky knits

- color focus
light and grayed neutrals
russet beiges
nudes and rosewoods
flamboyant carmine reds and fuchsias all the way to burned reds
deep violets
natural and deep greens – forest, pine, khaki
flannel grays

the BOND – IN ITALY exhibition showed pared down, designed models in leather bonded to knits in heat-formed shapes with glued seams, all in a LANVIN “couture” mood realized by DYLOAN STUDIO in Milan.