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19-21 september 2012

An excellent mood reigned over the winter 13/14 fabric show: visitors filled the aisles and stands, at lunch hour the sunny central lawn was filled with people…, a rather buoyant and much busier mood compared to last season.

The central forum with its mysterious castle décor presented a color range in the form of enormous banners coming down from the roof! and multitudes of sumptuous fabrics.

The big novelty was a new space called KNITWEAR SOLUTIONS dedicated to knitters, with a rich offer of samples and products: we especially liked the "design" fabric combinations: synthetic transparent fabrics contrasted with wool.

And in support of this new addition to the show, a stunning exhibition of knit designs by RAGNE KIKAS, sculpture-dresses that beautifully combined both texture and "couture" at the same time.

The show’s strong points:

This season, weavers put the accent on know-how and vied to present complex designs, performance and highly visual ornaments.

Whimsy, exuberance and Baroque were present in all sectors, even Casual.

  • The star of the show: jacquards in ornamental tapestry, silks and wools, incredibly rich, inspired by “grand siècle” upholstery fabric.

  • Guipure fabrics were also very ornamental and textured.
  • Gilding, mainly in variations of pink gold and copper, was incorporated into all types of fabrics, in particular into woolen tweeds, with sometimes rather gaudy sparkling results.
  • Lacquered looks enriched all sorts of materials, adding a silky look even to tech’ and sport fabrics.
  • Double weaves and bonded fabrics are still a must have: "couture" style double layer silky fabrics, double layer woolen fabrics and "soft shell" double knits, elaborated this season in contrasting materials. Compact but lightweight double fabric looks, round and supple. Note: a classic suiting renewal, also developed in doubled colors and materials. 
  • Another strong point was fabrics with weighty fluidity, double crepes and crepe satins.
  • Thick, smooth, cotton velvets in deep colors, panne fabrics marked by an oriental influence.
  • Prints vied for varying visual effects, thanks to digital printing: traditional motifs, giant placed motifs of flowers and animal skins, informal motifs which were devoured or enriched by metallic or luminescent effects.
  • We really liked the 3-D printed jeans exhibited at the COTTON INC stand.
  • More discreet knits, in an ultra-light, extremely feminine, mellow, and luxurious mix of cashmere/silk/alpaca/angora …or sturdy, thick, textured, coat weight knits. Special focus on all the ultra softened sweatshirt fleece, in either cotton or a more sporty cotton/synthetic blend.
  • The camouflage mood showed up on woolen fabrics in an expression of blurred effects, tweeded, bouclé, nubbed, very often multicolor and in a sophisticated rustic spirit.
  • Recycled synthetics and the use of wool in sport fabrics collections.

What we loved:

  • The U-CLIFE (Up-Cycling Limited Impact Fabrics Experts) stand, for the designs by Maud Hardy and Sébastien Adam, lengths of very stylish patchwork made from recycled clothes and available made to order.
  • Sophisticated silky fabrics in NEW LIFE (European recycled polyester).
  • The incredible fabric by SINGTEX made from coffee grounds, which, combined with jade crystal, exudes an impression of real freshness.
  • Not to be missed: Sophie Bramel and Patricia Poiré signing their new book MODE ET TISSUS HIGH-TECH, a delightful book that reads like a novel and playfully reveals all the secrets behind today’s innovative fabrics.