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14-16 february 2012

The latest PREMIERE VISION textile trade show (Feb 11-Feb 16) has been quite calm, and less euphoric or exciting than the previous one. Our in-house textile expert has prepared a special report, with the key points identified during the trade show. In addition, discover our view on the women’s wear market, and our favorite threads and technical textiles.

Key points
-       acidic, chemical, luminous brights, lemon yellows and fluorescent pinks
-       fresh pastels
-       darks : black and ink

Key points

Lots of novelties in a couture mood plus surprises and added values (in finishings and looks), sharpness, reworked patterns and associations of contrast materials for example : touches of fluorescent or plastified effects, even on cardeds.

We note a return of linen ! and a focus on Lyocell !

-       fluidity : silky, slubbed twills, springy and weighty stretch silkies
-       crepe yarns and weaves, preferably with a mat look
-       lots of taffetas and ottomans, modernized by cotton blends
-       tweeds rejuvenated in colors and materials
-       transparent effects : “cellophane” fibers appear in all fabrics,
-       new glossies : iridescents, subtle metallics, prints, vapory effects ; delicate or romantic, un-ostentatious technical fabrics
-       a tidal wave of eyelet embroideries and macro guipure laces, motifs and geometric openworks
-       compacts are generally lighter and bonded, foambacked or have spacer treatments ; knits are double, supple, sporty and sophisticated
-       linen, especially linen/cotton or linen/cashmere blends for fine knits to start the season
-       weaves in a “wicker” mood
-       clean cottons and weaves in a shirting mood, fresh, crisp “paper” looks and hands
-       “piece-dyed” cottons

Print focus

-       giant and placed or very covering motifs
-       exuberant, spicy, tropical photoprint flowers and leaves
-       watercolored, fresh, spontaneous garden flowers
-       informal, printed, blurry motifs appear to have been spray-painted or have diluted dye effects
-       a focus on burn-out prints on bucolic jerseys

Key points :
-       Functional fabrics for the city : water-repellent, breathable, heat-regulating
-       Ultra-light, crisp synthetics
-       Feminized silky looks and subtle glossies
-       Naturals, cotton/linen blends in technical versions
-       The growing importance of finishings for more casual looks
-       Blended wool, even for the summer

Our favorites
- new organic polymeres :
GREENFIL at SOFILA, organically sourced from castor oil seeds
polyester derived from sugar cane at TOYOTA TSUSCHO

- recycled synthetics :
fabrics in recycled PES and coffee grounds from SINGTEX
NEWLIFE at MIROGLIO, the first recycled, European synthetic fiber

- the “thermocatch” fiber at MITSUBISHI used at Uniqlo

- playful, laser-cut bondeds and embossed foambacks at RES designed by Elisabeth de Senneville
- cotton-look piqués at MAJO
- evolutive dyes at VELCOREX
- ecological polar fleeces at BECAGLI
- coppery laminates at LAMINTESS
- embroidered plastics at LEATHERTEX

Our favorites at PV
the IORI TOMITA exhibit at Meti Creative Japan

- The creation of a cardato regenerato label from the Italians in Prato who work in recycled wool,
- the Première Vision bag was made in regenerated wool by LINEA ROSS, FURPILE MAGLIA